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HOW TO REPAIR TPE DOLLS WOUNDS
This tutorial will teach you all you need to know to repair TPE Dolls. TPE is a thick material that is not easy to damage. Good care and maintenance will guarantee your doll to last for years. Keep in mind that most types of wounds can be invisibly fixed.
Anticipation is always key, and you should fix a wound right away if it ever appears, in order to prevent it to spread and extend (especially if it is on an area which is often being stretch during use).
Before starting reparation on your doll’s skin, it is advisable to make sure that the wound is cleaned up first of any dust for an optimal effect of the glue.
Our TPE glue is designed by WM Doll, our main manufacturer to repair thermoplastic elastomer. This glue acts by melting the TPE together into a blend.
In order to follow this tutorial you will need our TPE repair kit here.
IMPORTANT NOTICE: This glue is only designed to repair wounds on TPE. Do not use this glue to fix your doll’s eyelashes as a result, it would melt her eyelids. For nails or eyelashes, use either SuperGlue or eyelash/nail glue.
HAZARD & SAFETY INFORMATION REGARDING TPE GLUE & STAIN REMOVER:
- Highly flammable liquid and vapors
- Keep away from heat/sparks/open flame/other sources of heat
- Apply in a well ventilated area or outdoor
- Do not inhale glue vapors this may cause drowsiness or dizziness
- Use gloves when manipulating the product
- Keep away from eyes, skin and clothing. May cause serious irritation
- Repeated use can cause skin dryness or cracking
- Keep out of reach of children
- Do not swallow
THE FOLLOWING EQUIPMENT IS ADVISED:
- Protective mask
- Safety goggles
- Protective gloves (for stain removing cream which is corrosive)
TABLE OF CONTENT
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1. TPE Repair Kit – What is included
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2. Other items that you will need
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3. Examples of application for all kinds of wounds
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4. Smoothing & Finishing
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5. Final Results
1. TPE Repair Kit – What is included
Our TPE repair kit works on any form of abrasions, fractions, holes, open air bubbles and breakouts (with a hole in the skin for example). This kit includes the following:
- (*3) TPE Glues (10ml-0.33oz each) – You can purchase more if needed
- (*3) TPE Cream (10ml-0.33oz each) – You can purchase more if needed
- (*1) Pair of disposable silicone gloves
- (*1) Disposable 10ml syringe + cannula blunt head (0.33oz)
- (*1) Piece of TPE – To make TPE shreds and create a filling paste
NEW! You can now also purchase the following items:
- Soldering iron ($19.99) – A power station is required
- Heat gun + Power Station ($59)
- Soldering iron + Power station ($59)
- Heat gun + Soldering iron + Power Station ($89)
- Fumes protection mask ($19)
- Infrared Laser thermometer ($49) – To control melting point
These items are used by manufacturers to smooth TPE after repair. Heat guns are particularly adapted for scratches, rashes & other asperities. Soldering Iron substitutes to TPE glue in order to create TPE paste and fill holes with missing material.
Heat guns also greatly improves smoothing and finishing after repair. Please see below our to use a heat gun and a soldering iron to repair your TPE Doll skin.
2. Other items that you will need
- Shredded TPE material (needed to create a TPE paste or jelly)
This is obtained by shredding small pieces of the TPE sample piece included in your repair kit. Simply use scissors to cut thin pieces of TPE into a solvent resistant container.
Mixing this shredded TPE pieces with our TPE glue will give you a thick TPE paste that can be used pretty much like concrete to fill a hole.
Instead of making shreds and using glue, you can alternatively use a soldering iron + a small piece of TPE to create TPE paste. We will explain you how to do so below.
This TPE paste is the base of most repairs. Only prepare the right amount that you need in order not to waste it!
- A pair of sharp small scissors (to cut shreds or small chunks of TPE)
- Mixing recipients and toothpicks (needed to mix the TPE shreds with TPE glue)
- Tweezers (useful for precision to maintain the chunk in place or remove the TPE shreds)
- Towel (needed to clean the soldering tip for example, if using this method)
- Sandpaper (needed for smoothing while mimicking the skin texture of the doll)
- Mineral spirit solvent also known as mineral turpentine (not recommended method, heat gun preferred)
- Acetone solvent also known as propanone (not recommended method, heat gun preferred)
- Baby oil (needed for smoothing, if using heat gun and/or soldering iron)
- A solvent resistant mixing recipient (if TPE paste is needed and you are using method A below)
- A soldering iron (if you are using method B below)
- A heat gun (recommended for smoothing)
*This tool is preferred but not mandatory. Syringes with blunt cannula allow you a better precision when pouring the glue or the TPE paste. You can directly inject it into less accessible areas more accurately than with the applicator in the TPE glue bottle.
Syringes are mostly only needed for deep wounds such as type #3 or #6 on the below picture of this tutorial.
3. Example of application for all types of wounds
The below picture shows different types of damage on a large TPE test piece. Before engaging in any repair, you need to identify the type of wound and what will be needed to fix it accordingly.
As a rule of thumb, there are 3 main types of wounds:
(1) Damages that will require extra TPE to be filled with a TPE paste (for example #3, #4, #5, #6 on the below picture).
(2) Damages that only require TPE glue to be closed up (such as #2 or a cut on below picture).
(3) Damages that require smoothing (such as micro tearing, splits, or #1 on below picture).
Above picture shows most of the damages that can usually occur on thermoplastic elastomer (TPE).
3.1- Frail/Abrasion (#1)
3.2- Punctual mini-holes (#2)
3.3- Small & large open air bubble (#3 & #4)
3.4- Outbreak or eruptions (#5)
3.5- Breakthrough to the skeleton (#6)
3.6- Repair of a cut from a sharp object
PREPARATION OF THE TPE PASTE
TPE paste is needed to fix the (1) type of damages from the above list. You have 2 options:
METHOD (A): Create TPE paste by mixing TPE shreds with TPE glue (chemical melting).
METHOD (B): Melting a small piece of TPE the size of the hole directly onto the wound with a soldering iron (heat melting).
METHOD (A) TPE GLUE + TPE SHREDS
The above picture shows how to create TPE shreds with a pair of scissors and tweezers.
STEP 1: Using scissors cut small TPE pieces from the sample piece and collect them with the tweezers. These protruding TPE pieces will be chemically molten by the TPE glue to create the paste
STEP 2: Pour a small quantity of TPE glue and mix it with the shredded TPE pieces into a solvent resistant recipient. The shredded TPE will melt with the glue to create a TPE paste.
STEP 3: Apply it onto the area you need to fill in with the TPE paste.
METHOD (B) TPE CHUNK + SOLDERING IRON
STEP 1: Using scissors, cut a small TPE chunk the size of the hole to fill and place it onto the area to repair
STEP 2: Apply baby oil onto the wound (as it will evenly distribute the heat)
STEP 3 (OPTIONAL): Heat up the area with a heat gun.
STEP 4: Place the TPE chunk onto the area to fill. Make sure to use the same color and TPE from the manufacturer of your doll or you will not get a uniform result (melting temperature vary also depending on the manufacturer).
STEP 5: With the soldering iron repeatedly dab the soldering tip for half a second each time onto the chunk until it melts into a TPE paste and blends with the surrounding skin.
WARNING: Make sure to wipe the soldering iron tip clean before and after use, or it will impregnate the TPE material with black crust.
You might find it easier to use method (B) instead of method (A) in most of the cases. Method (A) however requires less equipment and will give roughly the same results.
3.1- HOW TO REPAIR SUPERFICIAL ABRASION OR FRAYING
Abrasions or fraying can sometimes happen, just like on us humans when we rip our skin against a wall or another rash surface. The below example shows you how to apply TPE paste with method (A).
STEP 1: Apply the TPE paste on the wound. Repeat the operation until there is enough TPE paste to cover the fraying.
STEP 2: Make sure to burst any small air bubble that would form into the liquid with a toothpick. If you leave it dry it would as a result create a hole (kind of like on a cake). You can now let it dry for around 2 hours.
STEP 3: Upon drying time, the TPE paste will lower down slightly. This is because of the fusion and evaporation of the solvent.
That’s it for now, we will get rid of that ugly scar later on below. You can also use the alternative option (B) above to achieve the same result.
3.2- HOW TO REPAIR SMALL HOLES
These small holes can be caused by a sharp object having pierced through your doll’s skin by accident. Depending on the depth and diameter of the hole, sometimes only TPE glue is enough to fix this type of damage.
If the hole is too deep and too large, It might be a better idea to fill it with TPE paste instead. If so simply repeat steps from either method (A) or (B) above.
If you evaluate that only TPE glue will be enough to fix it, simply apply it onto the area and keep it closed (for example using a tourniquet) until the glue has fully dried up (as per method 3.6).
3.3- HOW TO REPAIR AIR BUBBLES DEEP HOLES
Open air bubbles can unfortunately be due to small imperfections within the TPE blend during the moulding process of the doll, leaving small air bubbles that can potentially blow especially if near the surface of the skin, leaving a small hole.
For this type of wound you will need the syringe included with your repair kit, as well as the same paste as above if the diameter of the hole is too large and required filling with extra TPE material.
STEP 1: Inject the liquid paste or TPE glue into the air bubble hole using the syringe. If you do not have a syringe at disposal, place the shredded TPE into the hole first with the tweezers, then use a toothpick to add the glue within the hole.
STEP: Let the wound dry for 2 hours. If you observe a small volume loss due to solvent evaporation of the solvent, top up the area with a bit more TPE paste to even up the surface of the skin, and it dry again for another hour.
The above pictures show an open air bubble wound during reparation with TPE paste. Here also you could use TPE paste from method (B) instead, but method (A) will give you a better precision.
3.4- HOW TO REPAIR TPE OUTBREAKS
Here again your TPE paste from either method (A) or (B) is needed. As for the first type of damage repair example, pour the liquid paste into the wound.
At the end of the process, a curvature with TPE paste will form above the outbreak or eruption.
Because there is a volume loss by evaporation of the solvent, this curvature will even up with the surrounding surface by itself. Let it dry and go to section #4 to proceed with the smoothing of the fixed area.
3.5- HOW TO REPAIR OPEN WOUNDS (TO THE SKELETON)
Breakthroughs to the skeleton are heavy damages that might require several surgical intervention in order to fully fix your doll. Depending on the depth and width of the hole, you will need more or less TPE paste to fill in the missing area(s).
In order to close the breakthrough, we must first insert a plug with TPE material at the bottom of the breakthrough.
If using method (A) to create paste, pour TPE glue into the mixing vessel. Then add some shredded TPE material with the tweezers. Mix the TPE glue and the TPE shreds together, until you obtain a thick jelly texture TPE paste.
Alternatively you can use small TPE pieces of the approximate size of the hole, and melt it directly into it using a soldering iron as per above method (B).
Using the tweezers, to insert the TPE paste into the hole. You can pull the breakthrough gently apart with your fingers for ease of access.
At the end of this repair, a curvature will form, with the TPE paste above the eruption. Because there is some volume loss with the evaporation of the solvent, this curvature will even out with the surrounding surface. Allow to dry for a while, and then head on to the next section #4 for the smoothing.
3.6- HOW TO REPAIR A CUT ON TPE
TPE glue is the most effective method to repair a deep cut into the TPE. See how to quickly fix it below:
STEP 1: Use a metal stick (such as a metal ear curette for example) and simply add glue into the wound. You do not need TPE paste or shreds for this surgery intervention.
Depending on the depth, the applicator brush inside the glue bottle might be enough
STEP 2: Keep both parts of the damaged area tight together to keep the wound closed for at least 3 minutes.
Ideally apply a tourniquet with a piece of clothing or another system to maintain the wound closed.
Above picture is an ear curette, but any long, thin tool will work as a perfect applicator for this type of repair.
Alternatively to using TPE glue, you can simply use a soldering iron instead to achieve the same repair. Keep in mind that once heated, the soldering tip will cut through TPE like in warm butter. For better precision, it is strongly advised to use an adequate long and flat soldering tip for this type of repair. Note that this method will also require smoothing with a heat gun and sandpaper afterwards whereas glue won’t.
We recommend using simply TPE glue instead for this type of wound which is much easier.
4. TPE DOLLS REPAIR – SMOOTHING & FINISHING
Using the example of our TPE material, let’s now smoothen up the wounds we fixed previously. Note that this method is also the best way to repair superficial damages such as #1 wound type on the above picture from section 3.
There are several methods to achieve smoothing and make any type of repair invisible. Methods 4.1 and 4.2 require less equipment, but are also harder to achieve. We recommend using a heat gun as per method 4.3 for optimal results.
4.1. SMOOTHING USING TPE GLUE OR ACETONE
Only leave a very small amount of glue or acetone onto the applicator brush using too much solvent would eat through the TPE, creating a new wound again, and you do not need that!
Gently brush the repaired wound with the applicator brush until the surface is smooth – Make sure to here again take all precautions and to use gloves and a solvent resistant recipient.
With circular motions, move the applicator brush onto the wound. Avoid applying solvent on the wrong area, this would damage the skin. Keep going until the solvent evaporated.
This is the most delicate part of the process, you will need time, patience and a steady hand. This method is rather complicated and can easily go wrong. We recommend using a heat gun and sandpaper instead as per step 4.3 below.
4.2. REFRESHING THE WOUND WITH MINERAL SPIRIT
Mineral spirit has a high saturation and refreshing effect and is the final touch of this repair tutorial. Because of the amount of used solvents being used during the repair we have to make sure to saturate the TPE material with mineral oil.
STEP 1: Apply only a bit of mineral spirit liquid onto a tissue and gently apply it onto the wound.
STEP 2: Once the mineral spirit is soaking off from the TPE material, wash the surface with soft soap and water.
Afterwards do the powdering with your preferred powder. As a result the repairs have now almost completely disappeared. When you pass your finger on it, you should also no longer feel a difference. That’s it! This is how your repair TPE Dolls.
4.3. SMOOTHING USING A HEAT GUN + LASER THERMOMETER
Smoothing is great to fix superficial wounds such as micro tearing or splits (similar to damage #1 on above picture), generally occurring on the crotch area, armpits or elbows. A heat gun can essentially helps to melt the area before applying TPE paste and also for smoothing and finishing.
Please follow below steps to use our heat gun on thermoplastic elastomers.
STEP 1 – Setup the surgery table: Set up your surgery table. Choose ideally an outdoor area or a garage for example.
STEP 2 – Prepare your equipment: Using our fumes protection mask or a safety compliant one of your own, turn on the heat gun and wait until it warms up. Gradually increase the temperature and make sure to also turn on your laser thermometer.
Most TPE blends start melting around 120-130°C (248-266°F). With the laser thermometer, make sure the heated up area does not exceed 150°C (302°F), temperature at which most blends will start burning.
STEP 3 – Prepare the wound: Prior to start, make sure that the area you are going to heat up is clean and saturated with oil. This will prevent TPE from heating up too quickly, by evenly distributing the heat, and also reduce the risk of burning or darkening.
STEP 4 – Unleash the heat: Starting from about (20cm | 7.9″), place the head of the heat gun onto the wound doing small circular motions. Get closer to the wound if the heat isn’t strong enough. Or switch to the higher temperature mode. What you are looking for is a mirror consistency, a glazing effect, this tells you when to stop heating the area.
Depending on the area make sure to use one of the included nozzle for better precision (for example the crotch).
Use the laser thermometer to determine the temperature of the spot. This is the melting temperature of your doll. This value slightly varies from a manufacturer to the other.
It is critical that you control the temperature range of the area that you are working onto. Do not overheat it which could cause more issues that at the start…
Once TPE starts melting, you need to work quickly to get it smoothed out. You only have a few seconds to work prior to the TPE to cool down after which, you will need to heat up the area to the right melting point again.
STEP 5 – Smooth it up: As soon as you see the TPE starting to melt (a bit of smoke should appear, the point at which the TPE starts glazing over), stop heating the area.
With gentle strokes, tap a clean wet cloth onto the area to smooth it up and soak up the oil excess. This will prevent the glazyness or a mirror finish for the TPE melting. Make sure that the cloth is CLEAN and MOIST. Rinse the cloth in prior to repeat if needed, to clean it.
Do not wipe the area with the cloth, simply dab the area up & down and do not rub it or wipe it sideways. Repeat steps 3 & 4 as many times as needed if the TPE cools down.
To finish and get a perfectly seamless skin, gently dab unused sandpaper grit previously soaked in oil (to make it less harsh). Why sandpaper? Because it mimics the texture of the skin of your doll. If it is too smooth and glazy it will not look natural.
STEP 6: All done! You can now powder up the area to get your doll skin back for a smooth and soft touch feeling!
ABOUT SOLDERING STATIONS (HEAT GUN + IRON)
TPE Doll manufacturers use soldering stations during the finishing of a doll, in order to get rid of TPE bleedings from the molding process.
A soldering iron comes handy to get rid of these, but can also be used to fix most other wounds if you do not have TPE glue. To learn more about this repair method, see method (B) above and the video tutorial below.
4.4. SMOOTHING USING A SPOON
Another very smart method – Courtesy of Mishka Valentino – is to use a spoon alongside with a soldering iron. This method is great to fix common micro-tearing which could appear most often around areas prone to extensive stretching such as the neck, the crotch, the knees, the elbows, or the armpits.
Note that for this method you will need a propane torch to heat up the spoon and use it as an additional tool to get the smoothing even more perfect.
You can alternatively reproduce the same effect using a different soldering tip from the ones including with our soldering iron station. The advantage of a spoon though is its shape, which helps resculpting certain curved areas.
STEP 1: Apply baby oil on the area to repair. Make sure the area is clean of any dirt.
STEP 2: Heat up the back of the spoon with the propane torch for about 10 seconds. Make sure the spoon is clean and won’t incrust stains or other residus when being applied onto the TPE.
STEP 3: Dab it very lightly (without pressing it onto the skin) on the area for an immaculate smoothing. Be very careful not to heat up the spoon excessively or apply too much pressure which could create additional damages.
You can watch the video tutorial from Mishka below on how to do so. This great video tutorial will also teach you how to use the heat gun as well as the soldering iron:
5. REPAIR TPE DOLLS – FINAL RESULT
5.1. STRETCHING TEST
You can see below the repaired TPE material piece in the stretched state as well as the repaired TPE material piece in the angled state, e.g. similar to the strain on a bent elbow or knee.
5.2 CONCLUSION
Although all the above methods are quite easy to master, we recommend practicing on a TPE vagina insert for example or extra TPE piece before going ahead with the repairs on your doll. Practice makes perfect and if you were to commit any rookie mistake, better if it doesn’t happen on your doll!
If you have any question regarding this tutorial, suggestions on how to improve it based on your own experience, or objections on the proposed methods, never hesitate to contact us to let us know! Remember that TPE is a material with amazing properties and that it can in most cases, always be fixed invisibly.
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